some California magic:

driving distance from Fortuna to Standish-Hickey state park ~70 miles. Distance along Eel river btw same two points probably at least double (?). I believe Einstein did a calculation of river meandering factor as a function of gradient (shallow = high meander, and vice versa); but i digress. This post is about anadromous steelhead that makes it up these many miles from the ocean, some several times during their lives. The first eerie feeling that I was in fact in Alaska happened before I got to talking with the ranger about the trout; during a hike in the cool redwoods above the river unsuccessfully searching for the 1200 year old ‘big tree’

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Oakland on fire(works)

A bit like being somewhere on an active battlefield (i suppose). Fireworks shot not a 100 yards away for hours. Loud enough to set off car alarms, to justify ear plugs. Blinding phosphorous white flashes of light preceding the thunder. The street lights ‘see’ nothing but explosion haze; at first I thought it was rain. The smell of a diesel engine depot is probably the most pleasant part of the experience as it puts me back 30-35 years ago to the train stations of Moscow and St. Petersburg. This morning the pavement is littered with paper charge casing confetti with words – ‘Danger, Explosives’ – still intact. The neighbor says only two houses caught fire this time.

 

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